Monday, March 24, 2008

Stone Is Best, Mon

"Looks like a warehouse. Or maybe a wholesaler," I eyed the forklifts, the plain concrete buildings, the young man in a rubber apron hosing off the floor.

It was a cloudy, blustery day on Vaca Key and we had just walked the 2 miles and back on the old bridge that connects Vaca Key with Pigeon Key. From the bridge we were able to watch a GIANT spotted eagle ray gliding gracefully, a school of nurse sharks, what looked like a hawksbill turtle, some brown groupers, needlefish, mermaid-sized (and shaped) blue fish, strange tie-dye colored fish (on their way to a jam band show?) and more. During the walk, I told K that the concept of "catch-and-release" wasn't accepted by Japanese anglers until quite recently.

"We eat everything we fish," I explained. "If you can't eat it, don't fish it. If you have enough to eat, stop fishing." I was a bit upset by a small pile of hand-sized fish that were left to rot on a grassy knoll near the start of the old bridge. And perhaps it's this attitude of "but we make use of everything we catch..." that makes so many Japanese feel defensive about their whaling. It was never a culture to kill for sport, unlike the West, so I think many Japanese feel the Western World is being completely hypocritical in their criticism of Japanese whaling. I, for one, don't support whaling and I'm sorry that it affects the livelihoods of some families, but you gotta stop somewhere! Just because families depend on logging doesn't mean you can go and cut down old growth redwoods, you know? But I digress.

"Do you sell fish?" Big Dog asked the rubber apron man.
"In the office," he pointed.

The office was just that. An office. No fish in sight. Anywhere. Just "Raymond" manning one of the desks and a few others in the back office.
"Do you sell retail?" we had to keep asking.
"Sure. Mostly wholesale, to the restaurants, but we sell to individuals, too."

He gave us a list of what they had and we wound up buying some fresh yellowtail, some fresh stone crab claws and some fresh-frozen tuna. All of the fish was stored somewhere beyond our prying eyes!

"The claws are fresh and won't last long. Make sure you crack them outside because they'll squirt all over the place," advised Raymond who had grown up on Vaca Key.

About an hour later, Big Dog was bashing the living daylights out of the stone crab claws with some barbeque tools. We had no hammer and the tire jack in the car was our last resort. I wish he had let me take some photos before cracking the claws, though. They were so pretty, like coral, cream and black parrot beaks! And so we admired them for about 10 seconds before we began our giant crab claw pig-out.

"Mmmmm."
"They're so sweet and tasty!"
"....." (Big Dog rarely makes his enjoyment vocal.)

I was feeling a little sorry for the poor guys who'll be clawless for a while, but I always take the words of my angler brother to heart: "They sacrificed themselves for your pleasure. You HAVE TO enjoy them to the max." We did.

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Sunday, March 23, 2008

Time for Margaritaville

It was flat, alright.

Karma? Or what? Since we left the Mexican fishing village, we've had a flat tire on a plane, a flight that couldn't take off, a screw up in motel reservations and now a flat tire on our rented Toyota Prius?! What next?

AAA came to the rescue in no time at all, quickly jacked up the car, put on the spare, a toy-sized tire, and we were able to get a replacement vehicle before heading south to The Keys.

But when we got to Marathon we found that the real estate agency that was supposed to give us the keys to the house we had rented for the week failed to leave them for us and no one was around because it was Easter. Keyless in the Keys. The owner quickly arranged to have the neighbor open the place up for us. We'll work out the rest with the agency tomorrow. Small hiccups, but maybe the major problems are behind us.

I like the atmosphere here so far. It's very Low Key.
Big Dog and I agreed that it had a kind of Saipan-ish vibe. American but a bit third world and funky. It's so much better than antiseptic franchises and cookie cutter resorts. The rain clouds have gone away, it's warm (and humid! too humid for K who is used to the high desert dry, but I love it!) and the sun is starting to set. Must be time for Margaritaville!

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